Return to Hong Kong - November - December 1975
This is a diary titled “Countdown to Hong Kong” that Hong Kong veteran Leonard Corrigan kept as he and his wife, Gladys, travelled to Hong Kong and Japan to visit the main cemeteries where some of the Canadian soldiers who fought in the Battle of Hong Kong in 1941 are buried, and where all the soldiers who fought in that Battle are commemorated. The couple travelled from Swift Current, Saskatchewan where they lived, to the West Coast where the journey actually began.
Leonard and Gladys after 1975 Hong Kong pilgrimage. Click for larger view.
The diary was originally intended only for Leonard’s four daughters, all of whom were in their 30’s and 40’s, and living in other provinces across the country. The main purpose of the diary was to acknowledge the upcoming 35th Anniversary of the Battle of Hong Kong in 1941, and to describe what transpired in the various areas where the couple visited. It covers the period from November 30 to December 22, 1975. Both friends and family, both going and coming, are mentioned briefly. Three names might need a little explanation. Mrs. C. is they way Leonard refers to his wife, and the Mick spoken of near the end of the diary is daughter No. 4, (later known as Mik) who was finally able to meet the travellers in Calgary at the end of their journey. The one person requiring special comment is Eddo (Edo) Da Silva, a camp-mate of Leonard’s in the Shamshuipo POW facility in Hong Kong. He and his wife, Alzira, and their family were sponsored by Leonard to come to Canada after the war. They lived in Swift Current until their three children were grown when they moved West to Alberta and B.C. to be closer to their children and grandchildren.
Leonard’s four daughters agreed that this description of the travel undertaken by Leonard and his wife, Gladys, merited a wider readership than he would have intended, but that much of what was said in that diary would resonate with anyone who can relate to such a special experience.
The four sisters, Pat, Shelagh, Kathie and Mik hope you enjoy what follows.
November 30/75
Well, we may never get off the ground, but we did at least get on the plane (This is being ground out while we wait) Lewis met us at the station yesterday morning after a tiring, bumpy train ride. Was surprised to note that the snow continued at least as far thru as Kamloops.
Spent most of Saturday neighbouring with Lewis and Margaret and seeing the sights of Vancouver. Our hosts had invited Jim and Chris McIntosh (he’s a brother of Jack) over for supper and we spent the rest of the evening recalling the fun we had years ago when Jim worked with me in the Post Office. (Gad! and we think our kids nowadays are little so-and-so’s.
Sunday, December 1
Awoke this morning to find four or five inches of snow had fallen and that it was still coming down. Our original plan had been to breakfast with Fred and Eleanor Player but with the amount of snow falling Lewis decided it would be wiser to get a cab and hit for the airport as soon as possible. We waited an hour and a half for the cab and I would think we were probably the last ones to be served in that area, for the cab radio mentioned that no more cars were being sent to West Vancouver because of the number of vehicles stuck or off the road. The regular radio brought out an interesting item – Police are prosecuting motorist found to be without snow tires mounted, or chains”. In Vancouver? In Sask. I could believe it. Still with the weather – Victoria had had the coldest night in 50 years, and the Vancouver snow totalled eight inches.
Our taxi lad seemed a likeable young guy with apparent Grand Prix aspirations for we slithered and bumped past all manner of stalled cars and buses at a great rate of speed. I guess that’s what got us here, but I did mention to Mrs. C. that the brutal fact of having to take off in a plane would be anti-climactic after that ride. I should point out that my previous flying experience consisted of one short ride in a two-seater wartime plane, plus a ride to Wpeg. and back in a shaky old DC3.
We boarded the plane about noon but, since we had to be de-snowed and the runways cleared, we didn’t get off the ground until after 4 o’clock. Our plane, incidentally, is a 747, and it’s some bird. We met quite a few of the old (?) geezers (thank heaven for name tags) but no one I had really been close with in Hong Kong. Eva Bailey dropped by for a short talk and we were informed that Neil Bardahl had fallen and broken a leg and would not be along. (We heard later that he had had a stroke and would likely wind up in a wheel chair.)
TAKE-OFF – 4 P.M. P.S.T.
Well, it’s finally up, up, up and away. We’ll be travelling at 35,000 and with 4800 miles to go we should be hitting Tokyo in about nine hours. Any qualms about the take-off were soon dispelled – the aircraft is as smooth as silk. The scenery above the clouds is slightly fantastic, so like a winter prairie scene. In the background what could be the side of a distant coulee, while the foreground looked ever so much like a prairie field with bumps and hollows where the snow covers the rocks. OOPS! I had no sooner squeezed the foregoing onto my pen when we had a change of scenery below. Our clouds had taken on the appearance of a sea of rollers just about shy of cutting out in whitecaps. The sun has just disappeared below the clouds. The pilot has just warned of impending turbulence, but nothing of consequence yet.
Well! You have to believe that we country boys are finding we have a lot to learn. We’re about halfway to Tokyo flying along the Aleutians , but we can still look forward to another three hours before hitting the big city.
The smoothness of the operation continues to amaze me. The so-called turbulence mentioned previously amounted to about the same motion one might experience sitting in a train while passing over the switches in a railway yard, or, perhaps that of a small outboard motor boat breasting shallow waves.
I think Mick was thrilled by the sunrise on her European jaunt. Ours was a sunset. This has to be one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. In our case the horizon was cloud – but the colors. Every shade of red one could imagine, and these extending the full width of my vision through the window, gradually deepening in shade, but lasting over two hours. WOW!
I can understand the airlines trepidation about being forced down in some out of the way spot. Everyone would soon starve to death, because they’ve already served the passengers thirty-seven meals and there is no food left. I forgot to mention that Mrs. C. considered the evening meal to be quite good – some kind of beef on sticks – can’t spell Shish-Ka-Bob but that’s probably what it was.
Movie fare for tonight – “Night Flight To Moscow”. I thought the price of earphones was a bit much ($2.50 each) but I suppose that’s standard on most flights. Not being a movie fan I gave up after about five minutes. A young Japanese lad who had asked if he could share our seats to watch the movie proved to be about as enthusiastic as I, for when I decided to get out and go to the bar he was fast asleep.
10:45 P.S.T.
Ye gods! We’re eating again. This time beef steak, salad, dessert. No onion sandwiches, so I guess I’ll hit the bar again. Some time earlier I was trying to think of a simile that would describe the smoothness of our flight – the closest I could come was to be sitting in a train, stopped at the station, with the air conditioners on.
Beautiful trip – 4728 miles. Presently “holding” about 40 miles from Tokyo due to traffic there. We should be arriving about 2 A.M. P.S.T., which is7 P.M. Monday, Tokyo time.
Tokyo temperature……45 degrees Tokyo time 17 hours different to P.S.T.
Hong Kong time 16 hours different. Depart Tokyo – 3:20 A.M. P.S.T.
Mileage Tokyo to Hong Kong – 1860 miles
E.T.A. – 7:35 a.m. P.S.T. – 11;35 P.M. H.K.time
WE MADE IT!
Arrived in Hong Kong at 11:00 P.M. local time. When you figure we boarded this beautiful plane about noon (P.S.T.) yesterday you can imagine that everyone is just a mite on the weary side. Business of standing in line to go through Immigration, Customs and to find and identify baggage. The bus ride to the Hong Kong Hotel from Kai Tak Airport was one of complete non-recognition. We’ll see what daylight brings.
Tuesday, December 2.
Nothing spectacular to report on the day. Everyone bushed. Any writing of the remainder of the trip will be done in the hotel after the day’s activities, but this sure isn’t one of those nights.
This Hong Kong Hotel is something else. Eighteen stories stemming from a beautiful ground level lobby. Shopping arcades, restaurants – you name it – it’s here. Interconnected with the Hotel is the Terminal Arcade which, in addition to facilities for debarkation etc. for passenger ships and cargo for freighters, boasts of 200 shops and the claim that it’s the largest Arcade in Asia. Too bad I got rid of my silver mines.
Attended a Cocktail Party and Dinner staged by our travel agency this evening. I managed to stay abreast the drinking portion but didn’t last long with the nine -course meal that followed. I guess the last few days are catching up. An official tour of Hong Kong is slated for 9 A.M. tomorrow morning so I guess I’ll hit the hay.
Wednesday, December 3
Today’s fare – a trip around the Island, commencing with a ride up the Peak Tramway (a cable car that ascends from the 100 foot level to 1350 feet above sea level), All that can be said is that the view of Victoria below, and of the harbour and the City of Kowloon is fantastic. Having a somewhat limited vocabulary I found myself using that adjective every few minutes of the trip.
Perhaps I should inject a word of explanation here. The Colony of Hong Kong is made up of the Island of Hong Kong (capital Victoria)and the New Territories (capital Kowloon). The New Territories portion extends back on the mainland about forty miles to the border of China proper and this area was leased from the Chinese in 1898 for a period of 99 years. Just what will happen in 1997 is anyone’s guess.
From the Peak we boarded a bus and dropped down to Wanchai Gap, an area that was the scene of some of my magnificent wartime exploits. Unfortunately, the whole area has been built up to the point of making it almost impossible to pinpoint exact locations.
Enroute to Wanchai we stopped at Boon Haw’s famous domicile. If I were to describe this edifice as fantastic it would be the understatement of the trip. How true, I don’t know, but the story behind the place is that Aw Boon Haw was once refused entry to a public park because he was Chinese. Years later, after having accumulated many millions from a salve-like ointment called Tiger Balm, he built a magnificent villa and festooned the gardens and hillside with figures of men, monkeys – almost every type of animal you could think of- and all done in cement. A crazy patchwork of stairs and walls and small buildings cut into the side of the hill makes one think of the bizarre landscapes that Alice might have encountered in Wonderland. I guess it was his way of thumbing his nose at those smart Englishmen. One footnote on Tiger Balm. This ointment something like old time Zambuck and, if you’re a believer, it cures everything from colds, migraines, ingrown toenails – you name it. Mrs. C. had been bothered by a bit of sinus for the past day or so and , after a very light application of the wonder ointment to her nose – lo and behold, the sinuses miraculously cleared. I guess 500 million Chinese can’t be wrong.
On to Repulse Bay, a pre-war haven for the Taipans (big shots), but now built up to community status. Beautiful scenery and beach. The last time I saw the place I had to climb the mountain behind the hotel to investigate a rumour that Jap paratroops had landed at Tia Tam reservoir. Fortunately for me it was just a rumour.
From Repulse Bay back to Aberdeen. The water area of Aberdeen provides a living for 20, 000 persons who spend their lives on approximately 3000 sampans (small boats) in the harbour. You will recall seeing the Floating Sea-Food Restaurants in movies and /or pictures. A new feature to us was the “Low Cost Housing” developments build by the government. Our guide pointed out a cluster of high-rises in the area that housed 50, 000 persons.
Some of the problems faced by the government in their efforts to house people can be understood when one considers that the total land area of the Island is approximately 30 square miles. Subtract from this the area containing shear peaks and hills and you are left with an area of roughly 3 square miles that are useable, and that area houses 1 ½ million people. Efforts are being made to reclaim land from the sea, but on the Island the results have not been too substantial.
Our tour wound down with a trip along the waterfront of Victoria. Here is the business centre of the Colony. Immense buildings, the highest of which is 52 stories, house the banks, shipping and trading firms etc. The 52-story edifice was erected by Jardine-Matheson Engineering, one of the oldest of the Hong Kong trading firms, and I am told that the land was bought some years ago at a cost of $1, 000.00 per square foot.
Back to Kowloon side via the vehicular tunnel. I should have mentioned that there are two tunnels connecting the Island with the mainland, one each way, and the distance would be a little better than a mile. Our driver informs us that both tunnels were built by private enterprise and that the investors expected a ten-year span before the return of their investment. However, the tunnels have been so successful that it is believed that they will be amortized within two or three years.
Thursday, December 4
Well – this will have to go as one of my better mixed-up days. Our schedule lists several delightful items as “optional” including a trip to Western Market – Tram Ride – Walking Tour, etc., none of which appeared too thrilling. I think I was frightened that I might wind up on that walking tour.
After no careful thought at all we decided it would be a good day to deliver the Christmas items that Alzira and Eddo had given us for his mother and brother.
Our journey to the Island by Ferry was quite unsensational, but the taxi ride to the address of Eddo’s mother was another thing. In the first place, a ride in a Hong Kong taxi is one of those things that you read about without experiencing any complete understanding of the gut-rending ordeal you might be subjected to. That the Island suffers from an over-population problem is common knowledge, but it did appear to me that the taxi drivers were just a bit too diligent in their efforts to contribute their share towards solving that problem.
Anyhow – we had decided to visit Eddo’s mother first, and, with the help of some passers-by, our cabby deposited us at the address given. A very narrow door between two street shops bore the number we sought although as near as we could determine in the dim light there seemed to be nothing more than a very narrow hall extending back into the interior about twenty feet. Somehow I had the feeling that we might find the sinister face of Fu Manchu peering at us through a beaded curtain at the other end.
No beaded curtain, but a turn to the right brought us to two self-serve elevators whose total capacity appeared to be two persons. The elevator “boards” indicated that one was for the odd numbers and one for the even, and since our destination was supposed to be the eighth floor we opted for the one that said “even”. Foiled again – a scribbled sign indicated that it was “out of order” so we decided to ascend via the “odd” to the seventh floor (hopefully) and climb to the eighth from there. The stairway proved to be about the dimensions of a good-sized chimney and it was quite evident that anyone over-sized would have difficulties. The 8th landing proved to be about 3’ x 8’ with entrances for two suites (?) barred by sliding steel doors and padlocks. Security like this they could use in some of our jails. Efforts to enlist the services of an old lady that I could see through the bars proved fruitless and the door of the other suite was sealed off with a huge padlock so ( and I must admit, thankfully) we crept down to the 7th floor to get our lift to street level. Somehow the smells that I had hated thirty years ago beset me again and I was more than glad to reach the fresher (not fresh) air of the street.
Another of those taxi rides to the address of Eddo’s brother, and I’m sure that I’ll have calluses on the soles of my feet as my contribution to his avoidance of both vehicles and pedestrians.
In our innocence we believed that the delivery of the gifts to Dick and his wife would probably take an hour or so. No blooming way! We had to go out to a very nice Chinese restaurant for dinner. Dick’s wife is Chinese and as I intimated earlier I am no lover of Chinese food. Course after course of heaven knows what followed, and I learned early in the game that if I only as much as half cleared my portion Helen was there with a refill. I vaguely recalled that my non-acceptance of the food might be taken as an insult, but, with the street smells still haunting me I just couldn’t make the effort.
Following dinner our hosts suggested a tour of two or three department stores, Japanese, Rep. of China, etc. so we wandered for a couple of hours wishing we were wealthy enough to take back some of the intricate items of ivory and jade that we viewed. Our North American way of life seems to have successfully rendered the exquisite workmanship of the skilled craftsman obsolete.
I should mention that Dick lives in the general area of what had been our first P.O.W. camp at North Point and during the dinner I had mentioned that I would like to scout around to see if I could spot it. However, the building was so intense that it was difficult to pick out old landmarks.
So, after a very full afternoon we headed for the Star Ferry and our temporary home. Our hosts, Dick and Helen, were gracious to the last minute with him insisting on accompanying us to the Ferry by taxi.
Friday, December 5
As they say – Dear Diary: Today’s episode has to be somewhat more than disjointed. Mrs. C. wandered off to get her hair done at 9 A.M. and she tells me later “It was quite exotic.” (What the hell does that mean?)
Dick arrived at the hotel about 10:45 and we set out on a sort of “Destination unknown” trek. In the first instance we boarded a double-decker bus to the Sham Shui Po area where I hoped to see the remnants of our old camp. The camp was still there, though in somewhat different form. It is now being utilized as a barracks for some regiment and the gates bristled with guards and warning signs. Dick took the bull by the horns and asked at one of the guardhouses if we could get in and have a look around, apparently laying it on pretty thick about my having been a P.O.W. here. I had my doubts, but – PRESTO – and we were inside and being shown around by the R.S.M. With the construction of new buildings and the rehabilitation of the old I found that my poor memory just refused to get orientated.
Dick and I then boarded a bus for the New Territories. I was not aware of any particular destination but after a beautiful drive along the sea shore we arrived at Yuen Long. In passing I think I should mention that all traffic in this winding, hilly area is confined to what I thought was a Hell of a narrow two-lane highway. I think these mini-bus drivers serve a probationary period on the road, and, if they can avoid 90% of the oncoming traffic, and 60% of the pedestrians, then they are promoted to taxi drivers in Hong Kong.
A good portion of our little jaunt took us through what might be termed rural country. Any area that was close to being flat was being utilized for the growing of vegetables, presumably for the Hong Kong market. Also, since we skirted the sea, there were numerous fishing villages together with the odd shipyard where they appeared to be making sampans. It was somewhat surprising then, on arrival at Yuen Long, to find some of those massive high-rises situated away out here in the sticks.
The trip back terminated about half a mile from the Hotel and I bravely volunteered to walk it. Our route took us through an area of market streets full of stalls, and again the mass of people. Again the crowds, and particularly the smells almost got to me. It took a couple of stiff Baccardi’s (that’s the excuse I used anyway) to get me back on track.
Our official tour programme tonight included a trip to the Metropole Restaurant on the Island. Really a beautiful eating place – Chinese food - of course – but a lovely setting complete with a Chinese floorshow. A nice evening terminating with a Ferry ride back to Kowloon. Though things were a bit hazy at the upper levels, the lights of the Island were a splendid sight as we crossed the harbour.
Saturday, December 6
Another official “Nothing” day. Mrs. C. spent the morning browsing in the shops. As the only Canadian officer in our Canadian group I have been designated to play a small part in the Commemorative services tomorrow at Sai Wan Cemetery and, since the whole show comes under the staging by the British, we must have a rehearsal. So – we’re off to Sai Wan.
The one-hour trip to the cemetery site in a small mini-bus provided a beautiful drive. I mentioned to Mrs. C. that I would have loved to be a camera buff and, even if I had been, the dimensions that one might capture would have been so terribly inadequate. As I mentioned yesterday, one expects to leave crowded city environments when travelling ten or fifteen miles “out of town” as long as there is some fairly decent land space to build on. The congestion of people, the congestion of buildings is simply beyond my comprehension. I questioned a sort of University-type Chinese lad who was at the cemetery as to his estimate of the number of people living in these low rental projects and he suggested 2 ½ million in the Colony. As a photographer I could seem satisfied snapping a dozen or so of these projects, but there seem to be dozens and dozens of them.
Tonight’s meal – Carlton Hotel, Kowloon. A masterpiece of the roast beef trade. Actually, the first meal I have enjoyed since I arrived.
Sunday, December 7
This being the anniversary of the Japanese attack 34 years ago, we attended a special ceremony at Sai Wan Cemetery. A lovely setting, high up on a hill overlooking the harbour. Graves are laid out in terraces on the side of a very steep hill, with a Cenotaph at the bottom. Following a brief ceremony, wreaths were laid at the Cenotaph, the Last Post was played by an Army bugler, a lament on the bagpipes by a piper from the Gurkha Regiment and concluding with a firing party from the Royal Hong Kong Regiment. Everything very pukka. British Army you know. Returning from the ceremony we stopped to hoist one at the H.K.V.D.C. Mess.
Dinner this evening in the Bauhinia Room of our own hotel. Don’t ask me what the name means, but they do serve good Western meals. I should have mentioned that Col. Botehlo, who laid the wreath for the H.K.V.D.C., invited Mrs. C., Eva Bailey and I to lunch with him Tuesday. He was Captain of the H.K.V.D.C. in camp and recalls that I tried to teach him tenor sax. Needless to say, he hasn’t played it since.
Monday, December 8
Today was really a “nothing” day. Cold, rainy and windy so it put a damper on people’s intentions. Mrs. C. and I crossed to the Island and wandered around a few shops (I’m no shopper, so we didn’t buy anything. Wound up the day with a meal at the Peak Tower Restaurant. What a sight of the night lights of both the Island and Kowloon. We were about 2600 feet above sea level so you can imagine the view. From this vantage point one looks almost straight down on the city of Victoria and there are still higher peaks behind us.
Tuesday, December 9
Mrs. C. went out to do a bit of shopping this morning, and then it’s across to the Island by Ferry for our luncheon date with Botehlo. This man is just the picture of the near-forgotten old aristocracy types we used to see in the movies. The perfect gentleman. A pleasure to watch, to listen to, and a most gracious host. Our luncheon site was on the fifth floor of the Club Lusitano, a Portuguese Club of long standing in the Colony and our host mentioned that he had served as President of the Club for 25 years. Quite an honour and one we believe would be well-deserved. The Club is in the centre of the business district and as we walked up the street with Botehlo it was remarkable to see the evident respect when people greeted him as we passed. As we departed from the building after lunch we noted his name on the cornerstone and behind his name an O.B.E., M.B.E. and a couple of other decorations which I can’t recall. Quite a man!
Dinner tonight again at the Carlton Hotel which I mentioned earlier as overlooking the Kowloon area. A beautiful view of the lights from thousands of Kowloon apartments. Wish I could have taken a picture of that. Following a lovely dinner we were entertained by a small combo – piano, bass, guitar, drums and female vocalist. Really terrific! Good to listen to, good to dance to, and mainly – not too loud. Certainly this has been an outstanding afternoon and evening.
Wednesday, December 10
Today’s menu had to be unexciting. Mrs. C. had her hair done in the morning, following which she went out to spend some of the firm’s money.
Our group was invited to the Canadian Commissioner’s for a reception and the highlight of this social was the meeting with several of my Portuguese inmates of Sham Shui Po. My ego didn’t suffer a bit when the Commissioner informed me as we passed through the receiving line that he had received several enquiries re “Corrigan”. Noronha Boretta (and Botehlo again) et al, but we did miss Sir Albert Rodriguez and his wife and we hope we will run into him in the next day or so. I should mention that Eddie Noronha is a cousin of Alzira DaSilva and, besides driving us back to our hotel he is setting me up for a game of golf Saturday afternoon.
Wound up the day in the “Bauhinia Room” at the hotel where we were entertained by another small combo. However, these guys didn’t seem to jell like the Carlton group.
Thursday, December 11
Previous arrangements with Eddo’s brother Dick resulted in another tour of the “back country” in the New Territories”. While we haven’t made it to the border yet, we have seen what could be termed a good bit of rural Hong Kong. Mrs.C. having a bit of bronchial trouble today she stayed home and took life easy.
A most delightful afternoon – riding a double-decker bus through Kowloon, then a wild, jolting ride on a mini-bus into the Territories and terminating at Sai Kung, a small fishing village. Again I was surprised to see the highrises out here in the “sticks”. I should mention that the heights and turns on this narrow road have to be experienced, not seen. However, as mentioned before, these guys ae masters of the wheel. I should add that these mini-buses do not operate on fixed schedules. They just go like Hell from point “A” to point “B”.
Back again to Kowloon and then to the Island for dinner at the Café D’Amigo, a lovely restaurant featuring both Eastern and Western cuisine. My choice was Canadian salmon – very good, but I’m afraid Dick must have taken an awful beating on the food cheque.
Our “Dine Around” programme tonight found us at the Hotel Miramar. This has to be one of the most spectacular hotels I have ever run into. A brochure given out doesn’t exaggerate, nor does it do full justice to the setting. I would suppose the ground floor area where we were placed would seat 250 – 300 people. The description of this area is really quite beyond me. Murals, carvings, the intricately carved galleries, the enormous carved dragon on the ceiling – everything so ornate that the mind boggles. In the center, a stage with a waterfall playing over natural rock in the background. The floor-show proved to be some light versions of Chinese opera and with a backdrop like this how could it miss. The show was very well-performed and exquisitely costumed. Really a beautiful evening.
Friday, December 12
Not exactly the best day for touring – temperature 48F, but with wind and a bit of rain. Anyway – nothing deters tour leaders, so we are off to Macau via Hydrofoil – speed approximately 40 MPH so we should arrive some 75 minutes after departure.
What should have been a scenic tour of the islands turned out to be a smoggy, rain-filled journey aided and abetted by a very choppy sea. Guess you can’t win them all. It was our misfortune that the lousy weather persisted all through the day with the result that our land tour of Macau was something less than rewarding. With a land area of six square miles and a population of 300,000 and, as in most cases in this general area situated on hills and side hills, you can imagine that here too the congestion rather gets to you. Just to give you an idea of the terrain – on one of the streets we all had to disembark from the bus and walk to the bottom of the hill – the driver wouldn’t take the responsibility in the event of something happening. We did finally get a look at the border with the Republic of China from a high promontory overlooking the river. The border evidently is the centre of the river so the Chinese gunboats patrol one side and the Portuguese gunboats the other. We also saw the border point further inland and I must say that all I could see was a cluster of huts in the distance and a sour-looking Portuguese sentry in the foreground. As our guide mentioned, it’s quite easy to get in to China but something of a problem to get back out. Most of the buildings here would appear to be about 200 to 300 years old, and with a Chinese population making up 80% of the total it doesn’t leave too much for the Portuguese with their 7%.
The hotel of our destination was something else again. Opulence, extravagance – yes, and much more. Dinner in one of the 8 or 9 dining rooms in the hotel – beautiful cutlery and service, then it’s away to the Casino on a lower floor. Gambling would appear to be the major industry of Macau, and, judging from this building, it would seem to be a pretty fair investment. The Casino setup was something. A circular room about the size of hockey rink crowded with tables for Roulette, Baccarat, and plain old Black Jack. This circular was surrounded by a gallery approximately 20 feet wide which was filled with back-to-back banks of one-armed bandits. Our crew, including Mrs. C. , rallied to the cry of the “slots”, but the lack of victory smiles on the return journey seemed to indicate that nobody had broken the bank.
The return journey was a bit on the disturbing side. What we had termed “choppy” on the way out could now be described only as “damned rough” and I could suggest that a Hydrofoil hitting waves at 40 MPH isn’t exactly like sitting in a reclining chair.
The gang went upstairs to the Bauhinia Room on our return, but Mrs. C. and I snooked off for a quiet meal by ourselves in the Coffee Shop.
Saturday, December 16
Temperature - 40F – Forecast High – 48F – Rain – Wind.
Now isn’t that a lovely dish to hear when you waken in the morning looking forward to a game of golf?
Mrs. C. has been having a bit more trouble with the chest congestion and visited the hotel doctor while I was away with the group to visit Stanley Cemetery to lay a wreath for the nine Canadians buried there. Once again what would have been a most enjoyable scenic trip through the hills bordering the sea coast was spoiled by the chilly wind and rain.
Sat around the room for the remainder of the day. Eddie phoned to invite us to dinner at his house on Monday. Alizio Alves also phoned to set up a meeting with he and his wife in the hotel lobby tomorrow afternoon.
The radio discloses that today is the coldest December day they have had since 1896 when a tempo. of 36F was recorded. Thanks fellas.
Sunday, December 14
These guys that keep trying to get in the Guiness Book of Records! After boasting yesterday, the weatherman pulls a 36F on us today – and with the Strong Monsoon signal up yet. (?) This we can get at home.
With no agenda to follow, Mrs. C. decided to do a bit of packing. This entailed the purchase of a suitcase to transport our newly acquired belongings back to God’s country. The price - $6.00 (Can.) – so you can see we have a real treasure in travel accessories. Just to give you some idea – we also paid our hotel bill – HK$427.00, or approximately $85.00 (Can.). This amount includes lunches in the hotel, laundry and dry cleaning, and approximately $20.00 (Can.) for the doctor and medicine. Not bad for two weeks.
Our schedule tonight includes a dinner at the Peak Restaurant, but Mrs. C. is leery of the cold and wind up there so we may pass it up. Tomorrow evening the gang congregates on a “Luxurious Triple-Decker” Ferry for cocktails, dinner, music for dancing, a 11 as a sort of ‘going away’ party. “I” have elected to go along with Eddie’s dinner invitation so we’ll pass up the farewell party. Reasons? These Portuguese lads were true friends to me in camp and certainly deserve the priority.
Later – Fortunately Mrs. C. recuperated to the point of going to the Peak for dinner – but first – We met Alizio Alves, his wife, and his youngest daughter in the hotel. Lovely people – we reminisced about camp life and the people for a couple of hours in the 6th Floor lounge and it was most unfortunate that we had to break it off because of the Peak engagement.
Peak Restaurant – Wouldn’t you know? I didn’t take the camera tonight because it’s been such a lousy, rainy day and what happens? When we arrive at the top (2600 ft.) everything is as clear as a bell. The lights below are simply beautiful. Ah, Well! I’d probably forget to turn the film anyway.
The highlight of the evening again proved to be Portuguese hospitality. The Hong Kong Regiment invited us up to their Mess after our dinner at the Peak, and, again, who is our host? Col. Botelho. Once again I’m impressed with the spontaneous gentility and good manners of this man. I’m afraid I might have put a few Wpg. Grenadier noses out of joint, primarily because Tony Alves and Col. Botelho chose to sit with Mrs. C. and I and, when departure time arrived, protocol demanded that these people pay their respects to their host, which they did, with the Corrigans ensconced at the sort-of official table. Ain’t I the rat?
Monday, December 15
Well, the H.K. saga has just about run its course. Conclusions at this stage could be premature, so on with the day’s activities.
Dick DaSilva phoned this A.M. asking our plans for the day, and. Since this was “free time”, how’s about lunch with him. OK , I had just a few misgivings about this adventure, and, sure enough, we wound up in a side street restaurant to savour Manchurian barbecue. Mrs. C. will elaborate on the gastronomic elements – brazier in the centre of the table – boiling like mad – with little screen scoops positioned around the pot for each participant, these latter utensils to cook any one of the choices of thinly sliced meat or fish that one desired which, after not half enough time in the boiling water, were dipped into a small bowl containing some kind of sauce, ground nuts, and raw egg, thence to the mouth via chopsticks. Mrs. C. admitted that I had made a commendable effort but Chinese food still thwarts me. Dick was fully aware of my plight for he ordered a couple of double Baccardi’s to keep me occupied while the “gourmets’ finished their portions.
Eddie Noronha had previously proposed a dinner at his home this evening so he picked us up at the hotel and we were on our way. This evening turned out to be one of the nicest evenings we have spent in Hong Kong. In spite of a setting replete with elaborate silverware, beautiful crystal and the Chinese ‘Amah’ to serve, we found the family atmosphere the most impressive feature of the evening. An older girl, working, and probably in her twenties, and a younger teenager, but both so completely natural in the presence of strangers and with a genuine rapport with their parents. Guess I must be getting a bit homesick – ‘people’ are pretty hard to beat, particularly as a family group.
Tuesday, December 16
As things have a habit of doing our H.K. adventure ended with our take-off on a Cathay Pacific Airline Super-Tri-Star at approximately 9:30 A.M. Once again I’m amazed at the smoothness of these planes. I guess my previous experience on the rattlely DC-3 set up a few prejudices.
Was a little disappointed that we didn’t click a window seat this time but we can’t expect to get the breaks all the time. Stopped at Taipei, Formosa (Taiwan) for almost an hour but we were restricted to one waiting room. Mention should be made of the service on the plane. It seemed that there were more stewards and stewardesses than passengers. (Totally wrong , of course). We had hardly cleared the Hong Kong hills when these people brought around a full course meal. After Taipei an announcement that drinks (on Cathay Pacific) would be forthcoming, after which lunch, dinner (?) would be served. Surely these Asians must do something besides eating and going to bed?
Our arrival at Tokyo was encumbered somewhat by not having that window seat that I mentioned. I did try to get a picture through the window (while practically sitting in the lap of some American woman from Sumatra, but with my photographic experience it will probably turn out to be an excellent shot of our left (port?) wing. Anyway, Fujiyama is out there somewhere.
Tokyo – The usual delays for Customs, Immigration clearance and the confusion of baggage identification. Just an aside on this Customs bit – I had purchased a bottle of Baccardi at the Duty Free Shop in Hong Kong (for about half our price). The procedure for such items when we left Vancouver was
that the items would be transported to the plane and picked up on board by the customer. In Asia they operate just a mite differently as I found out when I got on board and read my receipt. In essence it said, “ Passengers will please pick up Duty Free purchases at Room X after passing through Customs and before boarding plane.” Well, actually I prefer Hudson’s Bay rum anyway.
Arriving fairly early (3 P.M. Hong Kong Time) we had hoped to see something of the city on the way to the hotel. However, by the time we were able to get away from the Airport dusk was beginning to set in. Not setting too fast to obliterate the number of people on the streets though. We’ll have to see what the morning brings. Everyone bushed tonight – 5:30 rising – lineups – the endless waits etc.
Wednesday, December 17
Once again I’m going to have to wear out my superlatives. A bus tour around the town today really opened our eyes. First of all, the local temperature is 38 degrees with a wind, which made it on the cool side, even for Canadians. Again, in direct contrast, we find a population of nearly 12 million living on comparatively flat acreage in relation to Hong Kong and we fully expected that the square mileage would, more or less, cancel out the congested feeling one had in Hong Kong. No way! Here again – people by the thousands. Traffic by the thousands. We are told that 40% of the Tokyo people drive personal vehicles, and, though we were travelling around 3:15 P.M., the traffic was horrendous. The city is also reputed to have 45 000 taxis. One remark I should make is that vehicles seem to respect the pedestrian walks and lights. In Hong Kong it had appeared to be “First there, first swerved.”
We are quartered in the East wing of the Imperial Hotel, apparently a portion of Frank Lloyd Wright’s old Imperial, and now forming an annex to the new Imperial.
The contrast between this city and Hong Kong baffles description. No congested highrises with their thousands of occupants, instead the city could be likened to Winnipeg ,or Calgary. Most buildings in this area run from 5 to 15 stories with the tallest being 32 stories. Most of this construction has taken place in the last ten years. We were amazed at the ”green” areas. With the demand for space that they must have, it seemed incredible that such areas would remain untouched. The Imperial Palace grounds cover a vast area, as do other areas such as the Meiji Gardens and numerous parks. Notable too was the fact that trees and shrubbery abound on street sides and any clear space around a building.
The handling of traffic deserves mention. Under-passes, over-passes, tunnels, they’ve got them all. Coming back to the hotel we were riding, at street level, above a similar stream of traffic below us, and at every street intersection we passed under traffic travelling at right angles to us. Added to all this is the train subway system, the computer train system (to say nothing of the famous “Bullet” trains that serve the more distant points), and the mono-rail which, I think, travels only to and from the Airport to the city centre. Most of these train systems seem to traverse all directions and on numrous occasions we were either above them, below them or adjacent to them. Fabulous! I understand that most of this traffic network was completed for the Olympics. I wonder if Drapeau-San will leave us a heritage like that?
Speaking of those Olympics, our tour today included a visit to the Olympic site where, at this time of the year, the swimming area is utilized as an ice skating rink. The building is worthy of mention. Somewhat resembling a giant clam shell, the roof is supported by immense steel cables suspended from two gigantic towers. Incredible.
Incidentally, the tur guide on our bus is a woman who, in stature, looks and manner of speaking reminds us of Terry LeClaire. I’m hoping to get a snap of her some time. Speaking of snaps – we’ve gone through ten rolls of film so far so if we get 10% we’ll still have a few shots. Shooting from bus and plane windows I figure I have 76 pictures of the back of people’s heads, trees that sprang into view, plus the blurred sides of buses that decided to pass just as I finally got set. Initially, I would suppose, even Karsh had his problems.
Thursday, December 18
Temperature approx. 35F and with a wind that’s chilly. Today’s itinerary includes a visit to Hodogaya Cemetery for a short memorial service. The Cemetery is in the Yokohama area and some of the Canadians who were drafted from our camp for work parties in the coal mines and shipyards are buried here. We were joined today by “Harry”, a Japanese interpreter, who had been attached to the Canadian prison camp during the war. Apparently Harry was quite decent to the fellows when the opportunity arose and they hadn’t forgotten it. He came down to the hotel prior to the bus leaving and it was rather heartwarming to see the fuss the fellows made over him. Later those who were actually in contact with him during the war took Harry, his wife, his son and his wife, and the son’s children, out to dinner. A lovely gesture, I thought. Human nature can be pretty fine – if you let it work by itself.
As it turned out, we passed through Yokohama which is, I believe, Japan’s second largest city. Leaving Tokyo we travelled through mile after mile of factories and shipyards. No doubt about the Tokyo – Yokohama area being the heart of Japanese industry. Tremendous activity in the harbour area as we passed.
The Commonwealth Cemetery proved to be a beautiful spot. Secluded in a rather steep valley, it seemed an appropriate setting for such a commemorative event. Once again names on the tombstones seem to evoke memories not produced by word or the printed page.
Tonight a reception at the Canadian Embassy for our crew. Very nice. The usual – gallons of drinks and elaborate food plates. It all seems like a drain, but I suppose there’s probably a good solid purpose behind it all. I don’t know where I picked up this piece of gossip, but someone told me that the Canadian Embassy has a fleet of 400 vehicles for its people. That might explain some of the traffic we encountered. I suppose it’s all a necessary part in the scheme of things as we operate these days, but I did think even such things as the reception for us was a little much.
If I seem to go “all-out” for the Japanese people, I think my reasons stem from the association my father had with one of the Japanese families at home following the First World War. The father of this family lost an eye in service with the Canadians and my father was evidently highly instrumental in obtaining a pension for him. In our last World War three boys in the family volunteered for service, one of which was killed in action. A pretty fair contribution for one’s adopted country. This “ feeling” for the Japs persisted through our defeat and subsequent incarceration with its so-called horrors and, because I was inclined to give full marks for their military efforts I was at times labelled pro-Japanese by my senior fellow officers. I still think that a people that can resurrect their country from the ruins of war and achieve the position they have in the world has something on the ball that we could learn from.
Friday, December 19
Today calls for a trip to Kyoto aboard the famous “Bullet” train which, so I am told, travels at speeds up to 130 MPH. Having to get up at 6 A.M. doesn’t exactly enhance one’s powers of observation. However - the train itself is comprised of approximately twenty cars. Entering this huge station and ascending to track level you proceed to a numbered sign corresponding to your car number (evidently they have both reserved and unreserved cars). In due time your train arrives, and, sure enough, the door of your car is right at your position. Car seats are numbered and set out in the manner of a plane with two seats on one side of the aisle and three on the other. Doors between the cars are automatic sliding (I’ve never seen so many automatic doors in my life as seen in Japan). With the journey begun, we again traverse the mile after mile of factories before arriving at a more pastoral area. During the course of this latter stage we seemed to almost encircle Mount Fuji, and it is an awesome sight. Although we seemed to run a great distance bordering the sea on our left I was surprised at the height of the hills, or mountains on our right. We went through literally miles of tunnels, and with the speed we were travelling and the length of time it took us to get through some of them, I would have to surmise that they were pretty lengthy.
Our schedule to Kyoto indicates a distance of 320 miles and this is traversed in 2 hours and 48 minutes, with two stops, so you can calculate our average speed. Another feature – we passed other trains travelling in the opposite direction every five minutes (these too were “Bullets”). Gad! They must have millions of these trains. What might be termed commuter trains operate on a different set of tracks fairly adjacent to ours. Someone mentioned that the train systems bring a million and a half people in to Tokyo every day. Further to our train – liquor is allowed on the train and girls go through the cars every few minutes peddling drinks, oranges, books, light meals etc., reminding me of the old “newsies” we used to have on our trains.
Most of my Kyoto news would seem to evolve about the train, but I think cramming a tour of Kyoto into three hours might seem to be the reason. Here was history, and that’s not absorbed as readily as those things with which we are acquainted. Buddhist and Shinto shrines dating back 400 to 500 years, three of which we visited, but it would be futile for me to attempt description.
Kyoto was originally the capital of Japan and that history was evident in the old buildings and in its inhabitants. The back streets with their sidewalk shops and stalls were reminiscent of similar scenes in Hong Kong. One thing noted in the food stalls – an abundance of apples and oranges – nothing peculiar about the oranges since they grow them here, but the apples – Canadian no less. Recognizable brands such as O.K. and B.C. In a city containing 1400 shrines and palaces etc., I’ll go along with the guide’s remarks that it would require months to fully explore the treasures. Ours we did in three hours – that’s tourism. As an aside I should mention that the Americans recognized Kyoto as a cultural and historical centre for the Japanese and refrained from bombing it during the last war.
One very important aspect of the Kyoto trip that I failed to mention was the fact that Mrs. C. did not accompany me. What with her asthmatic condition and possibly the price ($75. Can.) she decided it was not worth taking a chance. It happened that she was probably right in that respect for they had had snow the night previous. Anyway, as things turned out, only two of us from the Canadian group put down for the trip. My travelling companion for the day was a lady who shepherded me on and off trains and buses seemingly obsessed with the idea that everyone was going to leave us behind.
Just one more note from the “Bullet”. I noticed what I considered to be an inadequacy when I failed to see any sign of ‘block’ system lights such as we have in Canada. However, I am informed that the trains are completely controlled by computer from a centre in Tokyo. Wow! If they ever blow a condenser they’re in deep trouble.
Saturday, December 20
Once again the departure date creeps up on us. Somehow, though I long to get home, the urgency to get along with it is not as evident as it was prior to leaving Hong Kong. One contributing factor could be the food. Chinese, Japanese, you name it, types of food are just not for me. Our hotel serves Western dishes and I’m extremely grateful.
This being a “free” day, Mrs. C. wandered through the shops for one more splurge of shopping while I wandered out to spend some time in a lovely park directly across the street from our hotel.
It has turned out to be a beautiful, bright sunny day and quite a good crowd is taking advantage of it in the park. Young and old buy popcorn from the several stands in the park to feed the swarms of pigeons that hop about seeking a handout. I came upon a young girl, about 2 years of age, who was feeding both the pigeons and herself from her bag. The mother, and I presume her grandmother, were in the background enjoying the sight of the pigeons perched on the girl’s arms and shoulders. The whole scene was so cute I just had to ask the mother if I could take a picture of the little girl. Permission was granted, along with many smiles from the adults, so I indicated that I would like to take their pictures as well, and this was also given.
I was enjoying the park so much that I went back to the hotel to try and entice Mrs. C. out to share it with me. The beauty of this city clearly evidences the fact that the Japanese really love their trees and shrubs. As we walked along one path I noticed an oldish man who had stepped off the path and was apparently collecting buds from the rose bushes bordering the path. We stood for a minute watching him and, since some of the roses were blooming, when he turned around I indicated by sign language that I would like a rose for Mrs. C. He beamed and then searched the bush for what turned out to be a beautiful specimen, not quite opened out but really lovely. Much beaming and smiling on both sides now as he made the formal presentation to Mrs. C. The obvious pleasure on both sides will make a beautiful memory.
We noticed that all the larger trees had a broad band of straw wrapped around the trunk. The reason? With the advent of colder weather the insects and parasites retreat to the warmth of the straw.
Come spring (and before the insects move out of their temporary home) the straw is taken off and burned and the insects thereby liquidated. I should mention that this park is practically adjacent to the Imperial Palace grounds which means that you have a virtual parkland of huge dimensions right smack in the centre of the city.
As a last fling in Tokyo our tour company has set up a sort of ‘round of the night spots’ deal for us tonight. At a cost of $32 (Can) each we can’t afford to pass it up. First stoop – a Japanese theatre – and a huge one too – where we witnessed some type of light play. I splurged a buck on an English programme so that I would be right on top of the action but, although my programme outlined three plays that this particular company does, the one they did play was not included. Well, anyway, we did get the general idea.
Sorry! My memory fails me and I got ahead of myself. The theatre was not the first stop it was the second. Our first stop was a Japanese eating house. This was a little tough for old guys like me. We were required to either sit on the floor before a very low table, or try to tuck our feet under said table. Both proved to be almost impossible for guys like me with big feet. The chow? Served very nicely by a sort of hostess type, but again it was the old deal of the brazier in the centre and innumerable dishes. I chickened out on this one.
Stop No. 3. A beautiful large and ornate restaurant featuring a floor show. Here the wall and pillar carvings were mind-boggling. The show featured a group of dancers calling themselves, I think, World Dancers ( or something close to that). Anyway, they were good. Very professional. I should have mentioned that our $32. Included a drink on the house at every stop and with the price of liquor in Japan that was a bargain. To get back to the script – our last stop was a Geisha House. Here the senior Geisha explained the costumes, the customs and the duties that the Geisha might be called upon toperform. Shewas quite strong against the general theory that most foreigners have regarding Geishas in that the are generally considered to be a sort of high-ranking prostitute. Anyway – after the introductory phase, and after passing around the drinks, the group was encouraged to participate in gags and games devised by the Geishas. This part was worth the price of admission. The senior Geisha gal reminded one of Ethel Merman in looks and action and with a cheerleader like that it turned out to be a real fun evening.
Sunday, December 21
From this point on the diary becomes even more confusing than normal, mostly because I’m trying to reconstruct events after a delay of a month or so.
Most of the morning was spent packing the junk that people had accumulated and since our check-out time was 12 noon and we weren’t scheduled to leave the hotel until 4 P.M., the tour people arranged for rooms for the guys and for the gals. Our personal plan was to have a late afternoon meal before departure and this we did.
Arriving back at the hotel lobby after our meal we were greeted with the news that our plane had been delayed in Hong Kong due to some mechanical trouble. One of our tour members phoned her daughter in Vancouver to say we would be delayed and came back with the news that Vancouver had been socked in for two days with no planes in or out. This enlightening bit of news started tongues going and pretty soon the Latrine-o-grams were on the go .”How long will we have to wait?” “We may be here for days!” and, some time later. “ I hear they’re sending out a replacement plane from Vancouver.” This latter gem didn’t seem to make too much sense if they couldn’t get in or out of Vancouver, but apparently that’s just what happened.
Orders to move out of the hotel came about 8 P.M. and we were off to the airport. The usual delays for Customs, Immigration, and then a long, tedious wait until we were finally given clearance to board the plane about 12:30 P.M. Mrs. C. and I were about the last to board (as usual) and as we climbed the ramp I noticed a considerable stream of water running from the underside of the plane. Two our three Jap service guys were playing flashlights around trying to determine the source, and I facetiously remarked to Mrs. C that if they didn’t get that stopped I would be unable to take a bath on board. However, we continued on into the plane without further thought.
Shortly after 1 A.M. we were given the “GO” sign to move to the take-off position , and, after a wait of quite some minutes, the pilot announced that we were moving back to the terminal due to some mechanical failure involving a broken water line. Naturally this announcement didn’t do much to enhance the spirits of the group and I’m sure there were thoughts of some other little “icky” things that might happen during the ensuing 4800-mile jaunt. Finally, we again got our clearance and we were off. We were not much more than airborne when the captain got on the ‘blower’ and announced, with numerous apologies for the delays, that dinner would be served – so – at 3 A.M. we’re again faced with a full course meal. No sweat for the remainder of the trip – travelling at 39, 000 feet with a speed of 960 MPH due to an assist from the Jet Stream. Some turbulence was noticed on this leg of the flight but actually this was minor. Somewhere along the way we lost a day and Tokyo time so I’ll just have to coast from here.
Our original plan had been to grab a flight to Calgary about 1 P.M. but our late arrival meant catching another flight leaving about 1 A.M.- so – once again the business of hanging around the airport until early morning. As it turned out some of our Tokyo rumours were indeed true – they did send out a plane from Vancouver to Tokyo for us, and the paper said that 3000 people had been stranded in the Vancouver airport for two days, and our “relief” plane must have been about the first one out.
We finally boarded a 727 for Calgary about 1 A.M. and arrived there about 3:00 A.M. Calgary time to be greeted by the cheery faces of Mick and Tom who had been waiting 12 hours for us. Two little asides re the Calgary flight. There were only about ten people on the 727 and I got a kick out of the steward asking us all to move forward during takeoff and landing in order to equalize the load factor. A slight scud of snow had fallen in Calgary but it was beautifully clear and the city and its lights presented quite a picture - a bit of a thrill for us on landing – our plane did a bit of a side skid as we hit the ground (combination of the snow and our light load, I guess) but we made it. The other item was that we were travelling with a couple from our group from Montreal and they were to meet their son in Calgary. The lady tried a dozen times to call through to their home from Vancouver but no luck. She was quite worried that something was wrong since they had a young family and she was sure they wouldn’t be away from home all night. So – what happens? When we hit the airport we find that the son and his wife had teamed up with Mick and Tom and had been enjoying their vigil in the hotel room. Parents!
Our kids had arranged a room at the Crossroads Motel and we spent most of the early morning yakking, with the result that our departure for the drive home was considerably delayed. Arriving at about 9 P.M. we found Kathie and Sean and Mrs. Mac plus a supper that Kathie had prepared for some hours previous.
I suppose that one should have some conclusions after a jaunt such as ours, but, on the other hand, something like this is of such magnitude that it would really be an impossibility to summarize it in a few sentences. If you have managed to survive through this lengthy document I’m sure that you might have drawn your own conclusions, so there is little more for me to add than the fact that it was a “ONCE IN A LIFETIME THRILL” and to offer my humble thanks to those who made it possible.